Italy ...here we come

Getting there is half the fun

Flights, waiting, even the trains when we hit the ground in Milano were pretty close to clockwork, which had us meet the challenge of arriving in Camogli about 3pm with still at least two or three hours of the Pesche Fiesta to go. 

Pesche Fiesta Camogli

We saw the 6-metre wide fry pan fired up and serving the hordes with a variety of fresh fried seafood. Looked to be a bit of fun but with eyes hanging out from 36 hours of travel airports and train stations we eschewed the chance to jostle with the rest for what appeared to be a free little box of floured and cooked but I think not gutted etc fish. Instead we repaired to a waterfront Ristorante Primula for some seafood and salad .... Tuna and squid were excellent deep fried prawns forgettable.

Luciano from I Maggiolini B and B met us at the train station, relieved us of our light luggage and provided instruction of busing up the steep hill, then the stairs to his house. We only got a little lost and after arrival some further instruction to Bar Nico further up the hill and a great spot to watch sunset over a local "birra" bread cheese and salami. Even so we were back in bed and asleep before the end off twilight. Luciano promised quiet and certainly delivered.

Breakfast I Maggiolini B&B

After a good 12 hours sleep it was brekky on the terrace overlooking the sea and Camogli and some refinement of advice on our schedule for the day. .... Back up the hill to the little suburb of Ruta (where Nicos is) and turn left to join the series of walking tracks through Portofino National Park. We were to walk one and a half to two hours to San Fruttuoso for lunch and a swim -- catch boat to Portofino Mare, then another flat walk to San Margarithe Ligura  and a bus back to Ruta. Despite some complaints from herself and my left knee we accomplished the lot, despite quite a bit of people watching waiting for the boat.

The up and up then down, down and down walk to San Fruttuoso was very speccie and enjoyable. The swim in the Mediterranean was only a little bracing at the start and made it around to the next cove all of 100 metres. Lunch at beachside Giorgio's was a relaxed affair and we managed a discussion with a Swiss couple at next table who were revisiting after 42 years.

On the Track Parc Portofino

Beach San Futtuoso

Boat trip around to Portofino was uneventful  though we observed some of the toys of the rich even if not famous coming into port... An enormous super yacht, the Kauris III was moored in harbour along with several nearly as big, and on the six km walk to San Margarithe you see people soaking up the rays on hired sun beds ... It must be bedlam in high season still a month or two away.

There was a big passenger cruiser in the bay with sails furled waiting for it complement to re board and head off for the next day's playground. We encountered a Christofo Columbus statue on the waterfront while we waited for the bus he looked to be hailing for us. Must look up the connection because I thought he'd left from Genova which seemed to be supported by an even bigger marble statue of him outside the Genova Principe Station where we waited for a connection to Turino the next day.

Back to Ruta via an exciting bus ride, down the hill for a shower and check feet for blisters --- negative, despite how they feel after the quick march along the coastline -- then back up the hill slowly for a more leisurely dinner at Nico's again, and to back up his recommendation we met Luciano and his mate and their dogs, as we were heading home. They were on there way for a coffee and rum at Nico's.

Sunset over Camogli from Nico's Bar

Another quiet restful night with another terrace breakfast and the a mad ride down to the station with Luciano  "I used to be a taxi driver in Milano" . Fond goodbyes, buy ticket for Genova and find about onward train to Turino allowing time for an hour's walk around Camogli -- much, much quieter than on Sunday's arrival.

Camogli Italy

Hoi An a perfect end to the tour

Hoi An tailors, shoemakers, festival....what else?

We hired a car and driver from Hue to Hoi An,which isn't really that far but the speed limit is 70 Kmph it would seem, and there is so much traffic to avoid including motor cycles, push bikes, people buses and cars, plus a few animals, it takes all day.

Our first " commercial break " was the pearl farm, for coffee, the sales people were quite persistent but we resisted the temptation, after 30 mins our driver was ready to take us further.

We passed many rice fields and village settlements all busy with the bobbing of conical hats. Our route was to take us up the Hai Van pass to the American lookout post now in disrepair, it started to rain so it was a quick walk up snap, snap and people wanted to have pictures with Gina!  This stop was also another " commercial break" and we succumbed to the ladies selling pearls.

I'm not famous you know

It was another refreshment stop for our drive too, he got a free lunch. The scenery along the coast was a change from the flat fields, some interesting beaches were in the distance.

We arrive in Hoi An about 2 pm and asked if we would like to go to a traditional village handcrafts place.....ok we say, guess what it was another " commercial break".....but we didn't buy. They did have live silk worms munching away on leaves, demonstrated traditional and mechanical weaving, guided us passed the girls embroidering pictures from photographs, showed us into the tailoring sales shop, and out to the wood carving and lantern making......which was very colorful .

Silk worms having lunch

Now it was time to find our hotel.....we were taken to the wrong hotel, well actually our travel agent had booked the wrong hotel.  It was coming to the end of our holiday and we had chosen to stay at an up market resort Vinh Hung Riverside resort ( yes by the river) , we had been taken to the Vinh Hung 2 hotel in the middle of town.  We had to phone the travel agent to get it sorted and finally we were collected and taken a few blocks to our chosen accommodation.   Ahhh all was well, first get orientated, second go for a swim, third they have a daily food tasting hour in the garden, time for a beer we think, then it's off out the street to the town to explore.

Lucky for us it is festival time and the Saturday night was very exciting, there was a street entertainment, market, hawkers and the very colorful tradition of lighting candles and floating them down the river, lots of locals and visitors mingling on the bridge Highly decorated in lanterns. We found a " fresh beer" and sat a while to watch the passing parade.

Hoi An festival

Sunday, time to have a light workout at the fitness centre, a swim and then an extensive buffet breakfast.  Now it's off to town by boat to check out the tailors!  We had a couple of recommendations but they did not stock the material for Tony's new jacket. Wandered into the next one, and yes they had the material, were very friendly, had excellent English and customer rapport. Fabrics chosen, garment styles discussed, and measurements taken, we could come back tomorrow afternoon to collect. A couple of shops up the street we found a shoemaker, one pair of ankle boots for me and one pair of black dress shoes for Tony, is that all YES thank you, ok, come back tomorrow afternoon.

Ok so the shopping is done its off to explore the market, where we were met by a very persuasive young lady who kindly took us to her tailoring shop! Ok so I bought one more dress, measured, chose the material and yes, come back tomorrow, thank you.

Wandering down the alleyway another kind helpful lady insisted I should have my face threaded, "it not hurt! It last forever!"  Mmmm I wonder? Ok I'll give it a go, ouch ouch ouch for 15 minutes, but my face was smooth and of course she said I now looked younger ha ha ha.

Away we wander through the streets on the way back to the resort, stop for a fresh beer or two,and a snack. Tony is persuaded to purchase some sunglasses from a wandering vendor, and we make it back in time for a swim before the usual afternoon down pour.

Skipper Tony in Hoi An

Monday the gym,  a swim and breakfast, take the laundry across the road, yes I'll have it ready by 4 pm ok, then we're are off to town again on the boat...both days the boat captain has allowed Tony to drive the boat. We arrive at the pier safely, and start wandering along to find the money exchange, Aus$ were better than us$ so cashed up again we go in search of a good coffee , one more to our taste than the Vietnam variety, we found Lavazza coffee at ' Go travel Vietnam' , yes this is a travel agent with a coffee/ cafe front.  Nice coffee helpful people, more shopping information ! Tony tries to organize a fishing trip but it's full for tomorrow you have to go on wait list, ok then it's off to find a silversmith, slowly wandering the streets we find what we are looking for and make another purchase.  

Silversmith shop

Now it's beer time again and hot midday sun is beating down, so we settle into a cafe with fresh beer and get talking to another helpful tour guide Tony organizes a fishing trip, we also start talking to some people from Sydney, they had bought a picture of a daughter's desired dress and her measurements to be made in Hoi An , what a great idea, glad we didn't do that I'm sure the list would have been too long.

So now we've killed some more time and stayed out of the heat for a while, it's off to do the pick up of our tailoring. First we pass by a baggage stall in the market- we could need another bag to go home! Now over to the dress maker, try on, needs some alteration, we wait, ah yes that's better, ok completed. Around to the first tailor, ok so two things weren't ready for trying yet, one needed altering. Not too bad so we order some more shirts. Come back tomorrow!  Now for the shoes, yes mine are ok Tony's not so good, they need to remake- come back tomorrow! Ok.

Enough time to go back to the pool and some eats we think. Dinner at little place just five doors from the Buddah restaurant, and three doors up from the up market, Mango Mango, this meal was one do the nicest and freshes and simple food we had eaten, fresh red snapper and squid, top off with homemade passion fruit ice cream, yummy.

Tuesday morning Tony goes off fishing at 7:30 I have a leisurely breakfast collect the laundry, which had forgotten to get dried the day before, and go to collect all the tailor made clothes. On the way  I pass a french designer label shop " just new" the young lady was very attentive and pleased to tell me about each design, was also showing me garments which would be flattering, so yep I invested my cash in a new pure Vietnam silk designer top, instead of a cooking class and a fishing trip! Then it's back tithe resort to relax by the Pool and await the return of the fisherman.

The beach 

Catch of the day

Cocktails in the garden? Yes please. Tom Collins, Singapore sling, another? Ok local design - Red brick made with coconut cream, and a Why Not!

Off to collect shoes and diner, so many places to choose from, the barman had suggested Blue Dragon so we went off in search and decided it looked ok so settled in with a beer and ordered a combination hot pot excellent, noodles and a variety do seafood and pork and veggies, glass or two of Chile red and white and then it was off to find the renown Morning Glory for desert.  Yes they had cream caramel yummo, and waffles.

On the way to dinner we strolled through the market again and were approached by a lady who seemed to think we needed a manicure or threading or something, surely! Ok Tony decided he could have a shave, and it was a very good one, I decided to have the foot massage very relaxing too. All for $7.50

We like Hoi An the people are friendly, helpful, fair in their dealings, it's an easy town to get around and many hire bikes or motor cycles, but walking is easy.  There are a few cultural spots to check out too, the Japanese Bridge, a temple or two, and an old house, the folk art shop is excellent too. 

Hoi An - want a tailor?

While you are exploring the town you also can't help but notice the flood marks, many of the shops keep the records of how high the floods come up each year, last year was quite dramatic I guess about four foot, 1969 was way over eight foot.  When it floods, apparently everyone bands together and starts carrying everything upstairs , even our resort complex has had boats come to evacuate guests from the second story!  How would you like to have to go through muddy flood clean up every year? They do, it's a way of life, an expectation.

Our journey ends in a couple of days, it is back to Hanoi back to the Marigold - the best hotel in Hanoi, and back to the airport and home to Tasmania - back to uncrowded streets, safety regulations, and of course work, until the next adventure.

Last minute shopping

Just one more thing

What we remember

You were such a great guy! He called me mama!

Hue - a lesson in History

Discovering Hue the Imperial City

Early morning flight to Hue.....get up at 4am for a 6:40 flight.

The promised driver was there to pick us up at the airport and delivered us to the New Star Hotel, it's only 8:30 so we have a coffee and go for a walk till a room is ready.  On the way Gina has a eyebrow wax, manicure and pedicure for $10 all at once, three young girls, they wanted to do more but that was the limit.

A quick makeover in Hue - three workers one supervisor.

Back to the hotel to sort out the laundry, have a rest and checkout the pool. Gina has a rest and Tony goes off to explore the city.L'aubergine cafe for lunch was a good choice, fresh juice, Hue pancake, soup and fresh baguette. .

Let's checkout some of these shops, soon after starting we find a beautiful reversible silk jacket, Gina tried on many dresses but settled for the jacket only, $25 bargain surely.

DMZ cafe/bar, great atmosphere, writing all over the walls and ceiling, obviously a young persons hangout, but has gained a reputation in just a few short years, six, and you can by a share holding in the company if you wish. They also run a cafe Little Italy, and a hotel. We imagine this business will. Do very well out of the backpacker market.

The next morning it was off on a tour of the culture of Hue. Coach arrives packed with people from all over the world, all eager to get a sense of Vietnamese history. We were to visit four of the passed Kings palaces and tombs, see a martial arts display along with conical hat and incense making, and of course a huge lunch.

Hue City, Vietnam's political capital from 1802 to 1945 under the 13 emperors of the Nguyen Dynasty. Traditionally, the city has been one of Vietnam's cultural, religious and educational centers.

Hey there is an odd one in here!

Intricate tile work very modern for the time.

Reconstruction work at the Citadel

You've got to move quick

The Citadel  in Hue

Official tour description: 

"Start the trip at your hotel in Hue City with Tourguide & Driver. Visit the Thien Mu Pagoda, then the Tombs of King Khai Dinh and King Tu Duc. Come back to Hue for lunch at a local restaurant. After lunch at local restaurant, continue to visit the Imperial City, which is located in the Citadel. Modeled after the Forbidden City in Beijing, the Imperial City was built in the early 19th century. Explore the Thai Hoa Palace, with its spacious hall and ornate roof of huge timbers supported by 80 carved and lacquered columns. See the Halls of the Mandarins, the Nine Dynastic Urns and the site where the Forbidden Purple City once stood and Dong Ba market.

The trip finishes at 5:30pm at your hotel!"

Yes that's what we did and it was extremely informative and interesting, our guide spoke reasonable English so we didn't miss out on any of the facts.

Incense making

Conical hat  construction

Halong Bay

Experiencing Halong Bay ......world heritage area 

Pick up at the  Marigold hotel 8 am for a 3.5 hour mini bus ride to the Indochina junk terminal at Halong Bay.

We were welcomed by our guide Phouc and escorted to the tender for transfer to the vessel.

Your Junk awaits

Dragon Pearl 111 is delightful , described as a luxury cruise boat, and it did not disappoint. Compact cabin but well appointed and the bathroom was very clean and had all facilities and plenty of hot water.

Welcome aboard

Welcome pineapple juice on the foredeck shown to our cabins and mustered for lunch, that will be a five course lunch!  Rice, salad,  greens, prawns, minced oysters , clams, soup, fresh fruits chicken, washed down with Tiger and Halida beer, while we are cruising to our first stop.

Luxury cabin Dragon Pearl 111

Time to grab your bathers, sunscreen, hats etc and off we go kyaking , swimming and exploring a cave. The water temp was probably around 28 c.

Plenty of activity

The essence of Halong Bay

Back on board for quick shower and watch the sunset from the sundeck with a G&T......what else? Summoned for dinner, yes more food......prawns, crab, salad, rice, fruits, spring rolls, went well with a French chardonnay.

Brilliant sunsets

Food sculptures were awesome

Now you can go squid fishing if you like. But it's off to bed and a good nights sleep in that comfy cabin for us.

Early the next morning we are under way again before breakfast,but soon we arrive at a fishing village, ready to sample their simple way of life on the water. We are loaded into bamboo boats , two at a time,and rowed around the village for about 45 mins.

Houses are built in bamboo rafts and all tethered together, and somehow anchored to an island. Houses are complete with mini gardens, dogs, cats, and a boat several children...wonder if any fall off and drown? We visit the school which is sponsored by the Killara high school in Sydney, it's very simple a few desks, seats, and a cabinet with some books and pencils.

We keep exploring the bay and are taken under a rock arch......wonder when it will fall? Around we go to the oyster farm and finish our journey at thee all shop. Then it's back on board the Dragon Pearl for our trip back to port and lunch while cruising. Food on board is varied and very plentiful, Gina is not feeling very well .....seams to be food related so she's going light on the intake.

The floating village

Stunning rock formation Halong Bay

Australian sponsored school

Under the arch they go

Seeding the oysters

We arrive back in port and have to wait for the bus to transport us 3 hours back to Hanoi, it arrives eventually and we set off, us, the two American couples and a family of four from wales.  Strange noise coming from under the bus the blokes can't quite work out what it could be, a sort of grinding noise when we go around a corner!  Ok well we soon find out about half hour into the journey the drive shaft drops to the ground.....just lucky we are In the middle of a town. We all get off inspect the damage, unload the bags because it is obvious this bus isn't going anywhere.  The drive calls his mates driving other buses and one stops to pick up the family....they have a train to catch.  Next another bus comes back and takes us on board, then another bus turns up for the remainder.  All was well and really the whole process only took 20-30 minutes.

We arrived back in Hanoi to the Marigold hotel in time  to drop our bags and seek out a nice restaurant for dinner., the Green Tangerine but first a beer at the cafe across the road so we can watch the passing parade of bikes, scooters and cars.

Sapa trekking

Easy trekking in Sapa ..... We will find out.

Overnight train to Sapa ...ok well give it a try.  Four berth cabins, who will you share with? Lucky for us it was an Australian couple from Sydney.

We had a travel agent voucher for the train, which had to be swapped for train tickets at the station, so pleased we had a goffer to do this for us it appeared to be a complicated exercise.

Entertaining young people at the train station in Hanoi

We are met at the destination train station by the transport people and loaded into mini buses for the hours windy journey to Sapa. Given our instructions and shown to our hotel, we had breakfast and rejoined our trekking group at 9:30.

The Hmong had come to town to help us on our walk to their village

More organized kaos....waiting for people to turn up, make sure you had suitable foot ware....you can hire some gumboots if you like! Off we go marching down the streets of Sapa , we are mysteriously joined by a group of Hmong women, all asking the usual questions and " you be my friend" stunning valley views and breath taking moments.

Those big earings

Time to leave the road....and down the well worn paths through the rice fields.

My  assistant

Stunning landscape

Tony's assistant

Chicken and rice lunch on trek

Landslips meant detours

A new hydro scheme being completed

No trouble communicating our tour leader

Just stay here while I have a rest please

Hemp dying and drying

Intricate embroidery

Everyone is just so friendly

Yes trekking in Sapa is easy - provided there are no landslips, but if there are, the local ladies will take you by the hand and ensure you are safe and don't slip over. But beware they need to be paid - yes you are their latest best friend and you need to buy their beautiful wares, after all you need more than photos to remind you that you have gone all that way to experience their way of life. So after the trek to the villages we are loaded onto a minibus for the one hour journey back to the city of Sapa, back to the comfort of our hotel and try to find a drinkable coffee.

Sapa  - just magic

The next days trek was to Cat Cat village, now this was all downhill, via steps. Unfortunately Gina's knees are not what they used to be and half way down needed to purchase a walking pole. The waterfall and entertainment at the bottom was well worth the walk....but guess how we got back?

The road to Cat Cat village

The way through Cat Cat village

Everyone has a job

Cat Cat Waterfall  near Sapa

Traditional Dancers

What else can I fit on the bike?

It is all very grand in Sapa

Yes we came back on a bike! We had the rest of the day till 6pm to explore the town of Sapa before we were loaded back onto mini buses and sent back to Hanoi on the over night train again, so we visited the market place. 

Interesting things you find in bottles

Women are always busy

And you get your muddy shoes cleaned

On arrival at the train station it was a repeat of the first journey total Kaos to exchange the travel voucher for the train ticket, again we had someone to complete this task for us, otherwise I doubt we would have made it onto any train. so it's back to Hanoi and onto Halong Bay World Heritage site cruise. We also met some of the people we traveled to Sapa again and swapped stories. Amazingly some of these travelers were to pop up again during our adventure in Vietnam.